Monday, June 15, 2009

^10 oxidation, paperclay and ash glazes

I stepped into the high fire realm yesterday, trying new clay, new glaze recipes, a 2345deg (1285c) oxidation firing and slow cool. To say the least I was quite excited when I opened the kiln a little while ago. The following were the best out of the 10pot I made.

The clay used was a ^10 Toki sculpture paperclay, it very moist and sticky. Took some time to get used to handbuild because it sticks to everything, to combat that I let it sit exposed over night to dry out some and made it much easier to work with. It's not intended for the wheel, don't tell me that! made some interesting forms, doesn't throw like normal clay. Slab building is so much easier! Roll it out, cut to shape, dry to a bone state and assemble. Made 4 pots this way and each one is perfectly square with straight sides.

I wanted to try ash glazes but everything I've read was for a reduction burn, purchased a book on ash glaze making and there was 3 paragraphs on oxidation firing and not much information regarding the process. When over to my sisters house, cleaned her fireplace out and came home and started sifting. Made 3 recipes, ochre, an artificial reduction ochre and a 50/50 mix of ash and earthenware clay. Also did a couple of oxide washes and commercial dry celadon. I did not want pots being glazed to the shelves so I did thin applications since I was entering the unknown, will try thicker coats next time.

3in tall ochre

2in tall RIO wash

4in wide 50/50

2in wide artificial reduction ochre (lovely blues out of something I thought was going to have more yellow)

4in wide RIO wash

14in wide oval, RIO wash with celadon on the rim


Josiah said...

Awesome! I love the colors and textures. Whenever I get back into the studio, I'll have to hit you up for some of these recipes!

S said...

Great work. I really like the torn paperclay look. Try throwing a 1/2 bag on the ground to make a slab, but don't keep turning it over-it creates a great tree bark texture on the top side. Even more so if you keep the original outside of the block of clay on the top when throwing the slab. Then cut & completely dry your slabs for dry joining.

Anonymous said...

Keith; Like that blue. How are the cracked pots going to hold up to water exposure? Does the high fire effectively make the clay resistant to flaking?
Can you explane the dry slabbing? I thought to make a good joint they had to be maleable still. Bill